Kibale is a dense, humid rainforest in western Uganda, close to Fort Portal, and it holds one of the highest concentrations of primates in Africa. Around 795 square kilometres of moist evergreen forest shelter thirteen primate species, and the chimpanzee community at Kanyanchu has been followed and habituated since the early 1990s, which is why sightings are so reliable.
Tracking here is a sensory experience. You listen for pant-hoots and crashing branches, follow trackers along muddy trails and then sit within a few metres of chimps feeding, grooming and squabbling in the trees. Sessions run for up to an hour once the group is found.
For a deeper experience, the chimpanzee habituation programme takes you out for a full day with researchers and a community that is still getting used to human company, with much longer time in their presence. It is more demanding, but for wildlife lovers it is one of Uganda's most rewarding activities.
Beyond the park boundary, the Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary offers a community-run boardwalk walk with monkeys and birds, and the tea estates and crater lakes around Fort Portal give a change of scene between forest mornings.